From Austria to Belarus April-May 2015

 

Caught in a snow storm on a mountain pass in Austria. The road iced up resulting in Roadie and another motorhome bumping together. All in slow motion so no major damage. First scratch in 70,000klm

Impressive Kranjska Gora (gorge) Slovenia

Lake Bled in the Julian Alps, Slovenia. 

Dubrovnik, Croatia, sustained heavy shelling in 1991-2 by the Yugoslav Army. Now along with Split and Opatija (Rijeka) make up three beautiful spots in what was to us a rather barren and harsh Dalmatian Coastline

The famous old bridge in Mostar built in 1557 was shelled by the Yugoslav and Croat Armies in 1991-92 and now replaced with the help of the EU. War is strange and I'm yet to understand why the Croats joined with the Yugoslav Army after having first fought alongside the Muslims against the Serb and Montenegrin forces

Sarajevo, where the shooting in 1914 of the Archduke Franz Ferdinand, heir to the Austro-Hungarian throne, plunged the world into WW1. In 1992-95 Saraevo and the Bosniaks (Muslim Bosnians) were under siege by the Bosnian Serbs resulting in the death of over 10,500 Bosniaks. A dark period in recent European history who I for one can well remember

Montenegro has been one of our favorite countries this year. The mountains inland from the coast are rugged and beautiful

It’s just that being there early in April meant the snow gave us some challenges resulting in us being turned back on more than one occasion 

On to Kosovo and the NEW BORN country. I worked for the UN in Pristina in 2010 and had my photo taken in the same position. Just more graffiti on it now

Lunch with past UN work colleagues Fred and Afrim at Lake Batlava, Kosovo

Veliko Tarnovo the ancient capital of Bulgaria. Bulgaria has a history of conflict and settlement like many European countries. Thracian tombs, Ottoman forts, Roman ruins and communist monuments. However we will also remember Bulgaria for its rich agricultural country and roses where I believe 60% of the world’s rose oil is produced

Communist rule from 1946 - 89 followed by crime, corruption and economic mismanagement have resulted in a depressed economy. Past state owned housing blocks are now in sad repair. Corporate Bodies seem not to function in place of past central government management; the result is that common areas fall into disrepair

Bulgaria's once State owned factories now crumble into ruins after failing to be able to function in a free trade market

Romania, what an interesting country. Rolling hills, magnificent agricultural land and Bucharest just blew us away, such a beautifully presented city but all of this underlies a difficult past .........

Ceausecu's megalomaniacal rule of Romania was seen as misguided, chaotic and tyrannical. This is his house built to excesses of all proportions and reputed to be the second largest residence in the world after the White House

Ceausecu finally fell after a confrontation with demonstrators where hundreds lost their lives. He was caught and executed within 3 days in December 1989 ending a dark period in Romania's history. This white obelisk is a memorial to those who died on that day 

To us Transylvania is epitomised by Peles Castle set in magnificent scenery, snow-capped mountains and forests. When you first see it, it certainly has the wow factor! 

Of course a visit to Transylvania must include the story of Vlad Draculea the Impaler. A name gained from his favorite practice of impaling his enemies. His life was the inspiration for the character of Dracula by novelist Bram Stoker.

Moldova is well known for its wines and a nice drop can be bought for $4 to $5 a bottle!! The Cricova Winery cellars are located within 120 klm of tunnelling in an old limestone mining area. Well worth a visit!

The Orheiul Vechi Monastry Complex was carved into limestone cliffs by Orthodox monks in the 13th century. We camped across the river and within 100m of dwellings that date back 800 years.

 The monastery was reopened in 1996 after being shut down by the Soviets in 1944. Marina is buying candles from the priest to light and reflect upon.

 The Dniestre River (Nistra) has for centuries formed a large part of the border between the territories of Moldova and Ukraine. A string of forts along the river were built during the 14-16th centuries. This one in Soroca is a fine example having only just been restored.

 A touching sight in Kiev. In memory to all those who died during 2014

Another memorial to a tortured past. To the millions who died in Ukraine from starvation and deportation during Stalin's purges 1932 - 33

In Kiev it was good to meet up with another work colleague from Kabul, Dave Larson and his little daughter Anika

A tour from Kiev to Chernobyl. The site of the 1986 atomic reactor disaster. Now the area is a restricted zone with all permanent residents having been evacuated shortly after the explosion.

This is the Number 4 reactor that notoriously blew up on the 26th April 1986 spewing 9 tonnes of radioactive material into the atmosphere. After a cleaning process and the removal of top soil from around the area the radiation levels are ...... safe as shown by the Geiger counter.

Various donor nations are funding a €1.5 billion cover or sarcophagus which when completed will be pulled over the blown reactor to replace the decaying original cover

The memorial to the 29 firemen who died from radiation within two weeks of fighting the fire

The robots built to work the area after the explosion still show an elevated radiation level

A population of 137,000 was evacuated from the nearby city of Prypyat along with over 200 other small villages. All that now remains is a ghost town of crumbling buildings being overtaken with forest growth

School desks, books and other belongings still lying in place after nearly 30 years

On departure from the area there is a final check to make sure that there is no radioactive material on hands, boots and clothes 

   

Within the restricted Chornobyl area the Soviets had their state of the art, "Over the Horizon Radar". A huge construction, 150m in height and 900m in length. All had to be abandoned in 1986 after the explosion

Amongst the abandoned buildings, all that remains of the Soviet security force is a Red Soldier with a stern look

Having obtained a visa for Belarus we were looking forward to what we might see. Belarus gained independence from the USSR in 1991 and President Lukashenko has held onto power ever since 1994.

 With a reputation for being a harsh authoritarian, autocratic state, we weren't sure what we would find. However we were surprised; everything from roads, buildings, towns and cities are spick and span; the majority of agricultural production is still under collectivisation but appears to be some of the most productive that we have seen in Eastern Europe but yes underneath it's still a repressive state. We decided that it's more Russian than the Russians! The hammer and sickle is everywhere

Belarus has historical significance for WWII. The secret 1939 Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact between Hitler and Stalin agreed on how they would divide Europe after the war. Belarus and the Balkans was to be under Russian control however in June 1941 Germany attacked Brest a city in the SW to finally take and hold Belarus until 1944. This is the fort and main gate from the bridge on the Polish border where the Germans broke through

The country was the first of many savage eastern front battle grounds with an estimated 25% of the population who lost their lives. Memorials to the Soviet soldiers are everywhere. I can’t say the same about the equal number of citizens from the Balkans who were either executed or deported to the Gulags in Siberia and died there

We were there on May the 9th, the Soviet Victory Day. A time to remember the 26 million Soviets who died during WWII which was over half of the estimated total 50 million people who died during the war

 The lighter side to the marches and memories are the traditional dances and performances that take place across the country. Belarus men and women in traditional dress singing patriotic songs!

In Maryina'gorka we stayed with a past school friend of Marina's. With over 30 years to catch up there were many laughs and stories

Taken on a tour of Minsk by Ashen and Eger we visited the observation deck on top of the library and convention centre. A city skyline of cranes and new development 

Always in Eastern Europe beautiful churches

Goodbye to our hosts who looked after us with absolute eastern hospitality