Wednesday, 21 August 2013

Western Mongolia 1st-9th August 2013



           At Lake Khovsgol Nuur we enjoyed a welcome break from driving, some camp fire cooking and the odd yarn or two as well as ………


…..some unusual neighbors. This one, half cow, half yak 


               During the ‘Bronze Age’, burial monuments made of large standing stones with rock art depicting deer and other animal carvings were used. They are known today as ‘Deer Stones’ and number around 700 in the world of which 600 are to be found in Mongolia. An onsite Russian archaeologist confirmed that this specimen is still standing unaided after 3000 years…. No I wasn’t going to push it over either







                Heading west was the same story; follow the GPS reading and well……. which track? As one becomes corrugated and eroded just move to the side





                       But the corrugations caught up with us again and fatigue resulted in number three broken spring – to my dismay it just let go on a smooth piece of track. This time the top front hanger spring which would have been a mission stopper if I hadn’t brought a spare [photo compliments of Cheryl]


       

                  We replaced the broken spring on the spot….. well it was the third time. Further down the track we found a welder in a small village where I struck up an arc for the first time in a few years





              Northern Mongolia is home for marmots. They grow to a standing height of 50-60cm and can weigh up to 9kg. This fellow was warning his warren of an eagle and a vulture who were both standing over the warren waiting for an unsuspecting resident to exit


            We replenish our water supply by whatever means, pumping from fresh streams or from town water supplies. In most cases Mongolian towns don’t have water connected to the houses and supply is provided from a central bore. In this case the bore pump pressure was greater than our intake could handle but I was well aided by enthusiastic local helpers        
      
                  The journey westward continued through changing landscapes including heavy forest to…..









              ….to wide open flood plains with rugged mountains……




              ….. to drier areas….. but always, one is not far from Mongolian horses



              Unfortunately the country is littered with empty vodka bottles most of which are broken and lie at mountain passes, river crossings or just along the way









               We stopped to photograph snow capped mountains and a large mob of goats when the herdsman rode over to share a friendly chat……



             ……with not a word in common we discussed many issues including that cigarettes are bad for your health








                 When this herdsman was passing our camp with his horses, I admired his lasso which resulted in him giving us a demonstration of his skills. He never missed either!!




               Have you milked a cow? Bet you haven’t milked a mare? Mare’s milk is a staple part of a nomad’s diet from which they also make ayrag, a fermented low alcohol drink




                   At another camp our digital camera provides much entertainment






                On towards NW Mongolia and surprisingly a large area of sand hills with starkly beautiful rugged mountains as a back drop



                I read somewhere that this area is the most northern latitude where sand hills are found. Something to be verified by later research




           Finally up and over a pass at 2,500m and………








                  …….on to a little North Western border post between Mongolia and Russia




                    After 7,663klm in SE Asia, 7,443klm in China and 5,015klm in Mongolia (including a northern side trip to Lake Baikal in Russia) we cross the border again into Russia on the 9th August, five months to the day after leaving Singapore but this time to head west for Europe 




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