Friday, 12 July 2013

Mongolia 30 June - 10 July (Gobi desert & Central Mongolia)



              After four lanes of highway up to the border on the Chinese side, this was a bit of a shock. No road, just multiple tracks heading off and not even a sign!  Just as well for our GPS and Ozzie Explorer-gps/computer maps



             The wild life changed too. With the country rapidly turning into semi-arid steppe lands camels became the norm but are the Bactrian type with two humps





          The Mongolian nomad ger became a regular sight. The nomads shift their gers as they move their stock to fresh pastures. Today’s nomad seems to come equipped with a satellite dish and solar panel







          This little guy who I think is a gerbal, is soaking up the sun. He’s making the most of a sunny day where the summer temperatures range between +40 to +20 degrees c and winter temperatures are between -20 to -40 degrees c!   





            And if the last guy was a gerbal then this one is a pika. Whichever way, they are living in their burrows in vast numbers all over the steppes


     

      Ovoo’s are rock cairns usually built on high ground or the peak of a hill by travelers placing a rock and a gift to offer thanks to nature and the Gods for a safe passage 


                One curious herdsman arrived on his motorbike to inspect us. He was most interested in our trucks, checking out the suspension, 4WD, and other components.



            A final comparison of weights between Rob and the herdsman revealed that Rob was 10kg heavier. No common language but a lot of charades and things were as clear as mud


   

           Artesian water seems to be the means of watering in what would otherwise be a desolate region. The job for the herders is to lift up water each day for their stock and themselves




   




          We stopped to ask the way from some locals who had got together to trade horses. They were only too keen to see the computer map and GPS





                Traveling in this country is mostly over unchartered ground and alas! I hit something solid with the front wheel resulting in a broken spring leaf. At a village we found a guy with a welder and a few tools in the dirt. Four hours and $35 later we were on our way with a welded leaf but…. 30 klm later it broke again. Being the second leaf we were able to continue another 400klm into Dalandzadgad on the edge of the Gobi Desert where I was able to buy a second hand truck spring and have it adapted and fitted for $140


     
             Marina gives a geography lesson to one smart young lady. She knew the name of a koala bear that we gave her and all country names on the map. Her family ger is in the background 







            This small settlement must have had a prize wrestler, so admired in Mongolian life. He strikes the characteristic pose that we were to become so familiar with in the coming Na’adam Festival days




                    This is one rather elaborate ovoo. Many stones and many offerings of thanks 




  


       Before heading north to Khorakorum from Dalanzadgad we went out to Yolyn Am to visit the ice canyon. We set camp with a beautiful sunset and the mountains in the distance





         

                  The drive into the canyon which is now in a National Park with no grazing, was glorious. Wild flowers, low conifers and grasslands are all regenerating but alas only our friends who persevered for another 200 metres up the canyon were rewarded with a few pieces of ice in the most shaded of spots
               These White Tail Gazelle used to be plentiful. We were lucky to see this small group. On this day, being last in the convoy we just saw tails as they disappeared over the hill - so this photo is courtesy of Rob O’Sullivan






 




          Heading north, grasslands were replaced with rocky outcrops and sand hills, very similar to the edge of our Australian Desert country

             Some 250klm north of Dalanzadgad is the Ongiin Khiid Monastery. In its heyday it housed over 1000 monks. This all came to an end in 1939 when the Communist Government shot 200 monks and shipped many more out to Siberia. In 1991 after the fall of the Soviet Block two monks who escaped as young children started to rebuild the monastery and work on returning the river that supported the community before it was rerouted to a nearby mine. The guy in the photo we came to understand through charades was one of the two monks.   





       

              A young monk going about his duties






                Kharakorum was the ancient capital of the Mongol Empire established by Chingis Khan (often pronounced Ghengis and grandfather of Khubilai Khan) in 1220AD however settlement in the area goes back to the Bronze Age around 2000BC. After the Great Khans the city was sacked in the 14th century. The Monastery was rebuilt with material from the ruins in the 16th century and remains almost in its original state as a functioning monastery today





           Along with a day at the local Na’addam Festival we had dinner and watched an acrobatic and musical show including unique throat singing



              There are small towns along the way but the difference here is that with no formed roads leading in or out, the towns seem to just be isolated in one big open paddock. No lifestyle blocks or low density development along inward roads introducing a town ahead as in Australia





             Heading towards Ulaanbaatar the road is once again sealed although a $1.50 toll is hardly justified for the condition of the road; often limited to 60klm/hr or better off just driving across country again. However we’re out of the sand from the Gobi and back into rolling natural grasslands, eagles, goats and beautiful open scenery. Fourteen hundred klms after crossing into Mongolia we arrived into Ulaanbaatar   




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